Tuesday, 20 March 2012

One Mile Beach


The Holiday Park at One Mile Beach is impressive.  It sits right up against a giant crescent beach that always seems to have at least one surfable wave and is ideal for morning jogging.  The pool (see photo in the previous post) has a water slide, kids' pool, hot tub, and waterfalls.  There's a mini golf course, a jungle gym, tennis courts, and a clubhouse where there's always a Disney movie being projected onto the wall.  The front desk rents out pedal-powered go karts and there are free barbecues throughout the park for throwing shrimp onto.  During the busy times of the year this place must be packed and bustling, but this week the Aussies are at work and at school, so we have it almost all to ourselves.

There are a few other tourists around and we meet a family of Belgians by the pool one morning.  They, like us, have a baby around 7 months old, and a toddler, but theirs are boys.  Like us, they are travelling around Australia for a few months, taking a break from work and focusing on the family.  We fall into a conversation about the pro's and con's of it all and have some good laughs about how similar our experiences are.  Rusty and the boy her age seem to hit it off well even though he only speaks French.  They throw a ball back and forth which is cute because neither is all that good at throwing or catching.  The ball goes off in all directions.  When it lands in the water, if it is too deep for Rusty, he bravely wades in to get it and then presents it to her.  Like a knight in shining armour, only in water wings.  He calls her "La Belle".

We meet up with the Belgians for some snacks and drinks later that evening.  Rusty and the little boy are like best friends.  They colour for awhile, they tickle the baby's feet, they feed each other pistachios.  Wait.  Rusty ate pistachios??  Ellen and I have to look twice to believe it because there is no way she would ever take pistachios from us, but there it is.  She is eating them so fast that her cheeks are full.  It must be love.  They sit side by side in a camping chair for most of the evening, both good as little angels, while the grown-ups sit around and talk.

Le Belgian et La Belle
Rusty also falls in love with the waves at One Mile Beach.  We walk all the way down to one end along the wet sand.  Audrey is in her carrier, strapped to my chest, losing her fight against a nap, and Rusty is chasing sea gulls with Ellen.  A couple times a big wave crashes and swamps over her knees, leaving her flapping her arms and looking for a safe leg to hug.  By the time we get to the end of the beach, the waves are the main game and the sea gulls are forgotten.  She creeps up to where the last wave is receding, waits as long as she can dare, and then runs like hell away from the next wave before it catches up and soaks her.  And then she keeps running.  And keeps running.  She goes about 50 meters up the beach, over all the dry sand and into the dunes.  It takes about half an hour.  Ellen and I want to laugh our heads off, but we try not to because she is so earnestly running, very slowly, for her life.

Rusty running from the wave

Downward Dog-Drench

Thursday, 8 March 2012

Phillip Island to Coffs Harbour

Sunday February 12

After the whirlwind tour of the Great Ocean Road, Mornington Peninsula and Phillip Island we decide that it is time to hunker down somewhere and go slow.  We all need to press the pause button on the sightseeing for awhile. 

We decide to make a beeline up the coast and plant ourselves in a beach town for a couple weeks before we head to Yamba/Angourie (where some close family friends have generously offered their beach house to us for a couple weeks!)

Two weeks straight in one spot and two weeks straight in the next - perfect for some much needed down time.  There is only one thing standing in our way - 1550 km of highway.  We book ourselves into an apartment in Coffs Harbour (an affordable and family-friendly beachside town) for 5 days from today - that's an average of 300 km a day.  Ready, Set, Charge...

We drive 650 km the first day.  The girls are amazing.  Rusty is immersed in her DVD player and we have every song off the Wiggles DVD memorized by the time we pull into Gundagai.  Audrey sleeps most of the way - morning nap followed by a long stop for lunch and a play - followed by another nap.  We discover something awesome - the rest stops have playgrounds here!

We are able to keep them both fed, and either sleeping or happy for most of the drive.  I discover that I can squeeze and buckle myself in the small space between the carseats so I can feed or play with the girls while Clark drives.  I am even able to nurse Audrey on the go (albeit at a terribly awkward angle with plastic digging into my ribs).  But, that is how determined we are to make this charge as quickly as possible.  The faster we get somewhere the longer we get to stay put there!

Rusty sound asleep in her carseat
We decide to call it a day in Gundagai as both girls are loudly letting us know they are ready to get out of the car just as we pull in to town.  When we pull up to a local motel, Clark tells me to exit the wagon quickly so the proprietor won't hear the kids screaming!  He jokes they are bound to jack up the price, and by this point we would be more than willing to pay it!!

Monday February 13

We make it 575 km from Gundagai to Port Stephens and can't believe how painless it was.  Thank you once again Grandma for the portable DVD player - it was our saving grace.  We have arrived in a beautiful spot only 400 km shy of Coffs Harbour.  We find a caravan park located right on One Mile Beach with a fantastic pool and a reasonable rate.  We decide to stay here until we are due in Coffs on Friday.

Here is the pool.


And here is the beach.



 Ready, Set, Kickback...

Wednesday, 7 March 2012

Phillip Island

Friday February 9

After longingly passing by countless vineyards in our travels thus far we decide that today is the day that we are going to try to mix children and wine-tasting.  As Seasoned Travelers with Young Naughty Kids (STYNKs), we decide it's best to go to just one vineyard.  We choose wisely - a vineyard just outside of Mornington that specializes in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cheese and most importantly advertises that they have a PLAYGROUND.  Our plan is to wear Rusty out in the playground, have a quiet and relaxing tasting and then have Rusty nap on the late afternoon drive to Phillip Island and be ready for a late-night penguin viewing experience that we have booked tickets for.  Good plan, right?

Rusty doesn't want to leave the playground and have a quiet and relaxing tasting.  We finally coax her through the cellar door and then take turns following her from one "don't touch" to another while trying to listen to descriptions of each wine.  The proprietor is very kind and even lets Rusty join him behind the counter for awhile.  Overall it is enjoyable, but we agree that wine-tasting is much better as a couple than a family.

Time for Part 2 of the plan - the late afternoon nap.  No such luck.  Despite repeated tries of handing Rusty her Princess Blanket and telling her that Puppy was ready for sleepy-sleep she is bright-eyed for the entire drive.  We think there might be some potential for sleep when we arrive at the caravan park but they give us a cabin right next to the jumping pillow and that is that.

The point of driving all the way to Phillip Island is to check out the Little Penguins or as the brochures refer to it, "The Penguin Parade".  We are keen to see these little guys who emerge from the ocean at dusk by the hundreds and make their way to the burrows in the sand dunes where they nest.  We are somewhat appalled, however, by the brochure pictures which show seating and lighting for the penguin viewing that seems like it would be more appropriate at a rock concert.  We are a bit apprehensive about how disturbing the viewing experience is to the Little Penguins.

In terms of natural wildlife viewing it is unbelievably predictable.  There is a sign in the interpretive center stating that the penguins are expected to arrive at 9:38 pm.  Sure enough, 9:38 pm rolls around, and suddenly the penguins emerge from the ocean and waddle their way up the beach, directly past the viewing platform.  They practically stop right in front of you and take a bow. I'm not sure whether there is anything cuter than a fat little penguin tripping its way up the beach but we are all spellbound.  Each time a group of penguins walks by our viewing platform Rusty giggles and asks for 'more, more'.  The penguins are happy to oblige and countless groups of 10 or more parade past us over the next 30 minutes.  My favorite is a little fatty that has to take a break every few feet and sit down to rest - just adorable as he huffs & puffs his way home.  They don't seem bothered by us in the least and we are told that the boardwalks and stadium seating is an improvement over how they were viewed in the past - by driving and parking directly on the beach!  All-in-all we are pretty thrilled with the whole experience.



OK - so you aren't allowed to take pictures of the Little Penguins.  Instead we horse around with pictures of pictures in the interpretive center.

Saturday February 10

Today is awesome.  A chocolate factory first thing in the morning, fish and chips at a fishermans' co-op for lunch, and then koala viewing at a nearby sanctuary in the afternoon.

We found out about the chocolate factory when we passed it on our way to the Penguin Parade.  Ninety percent of their neon signage went to the words "FREE SAMPLES".  With a little hunting, you can also make out the words, "Chocolate Factory".  It shoots straight to the top of our list of places to visit.

Inside we are immediately handed our free sample.  It is a single chocolate disc, about the size of a bottle cap.  It is seriously good.  It is so good that we spring $12 each to take a tour of what we figure will be a lousy look behind the scenes.  They are hiding everything behind a closed door and there are no pictures of what we can expect.  Twelve bucks to see some guy scooping chocolate into a mold?  I don't know...  But we've come this far, and there are people waiting for us to move away from the free sample counter, so in we go.

The tour blows us away.  It's actually a very professionally done chocolate museum.  They tell the whole story of where it grows, how it's processed, and what makes it good.  They have real samples of cocoa at every stage of the process and engaging interactive exhibits.  You grind the beans, you separate the husks, you temper it.  There is a room-sized model village made entirely of chocolate, complete with electric train running through it.  There is a one-tonne block of chocolate, kept just out of reach.  The displays are somehow equally entertaining to 2-year olds and their parents alike.

One display totally floors me.  It's a three-dimensional moving cartoon of chocolate penguins being molded, and then diving into a chocolate pool.  They do things that are impossible, like disappear into the table top, and appear from nothing.  Somehow they have managed to make chocolate come alive and do tricks.  Rusty has her "Does not compute" face on, and so do I frankly, but then the strobe light turns off and the trick is revealed.  The tabletop is spinning and there are dozens of chocolate penguins standing next to each other, each one just one frame different from its neighbor.  They spin at a rate to match the strobe light and voila:  stop-motion modeling.

Next are a series of skill-testing games.  In the first one, you turn a dial to adjust the angle of a ramp.  When you think you've got it right, you press the button to send a foil-wrapped chocolate ball down it.  It jumps off the lip at the end and if it lands in the mouth of the waiting shark, then the ball is delivered to you and you can eat it.  Ellen lands the shark jump first try and the chocolate is the same seriously good stuff as the free sample.  We play the game many more times as well as all the other ones.  The games are not easy and it takes us probably about eight failed attempts at each one for every chocolate ball we win.  We would stay all day but there is a guy whose whole job is to watch you and move you along when you've stayed too long.  The dumb jerk won't leave us alone, so eventually we give in and move to the next room.

Next is a display where you pour chocolate onto a moving conveyor belt and try to make shapes or spell your name or something.  The belt carries your creation to the far side of the room where it drops down into a bowl for you to collect.  We do one for each member of the family and then go and wait by the bowl.  Our masterpieces drop, we eat them, and then carry on to the next station.  Rusty fails to show up at the next station.  I go back around the corner and sure enough, there she is, planted at the bowl, her eyes firmly on the conveyor belt.  It looks like very serious business and I have a hard time explaining why we have to leave this wonderful place, ever, at all.

Lunch at the fishermans' co-op is wonderful and delicious, like it is with most fish and chips places here.  I LOVE FISH AND CHIPS and would eat it for all three meals if I could.  I think Audrey would join me.  Rusty and Ellen on the other hand are not quite as big of fans.

After lunch we go to a koala sanctuary for the long-awaited sighting of a koala.  We have had our eyes peeled in the car whenever there are stands of gum trees and signs saying to watch out for koalas crossing, but haven't seen any yet.  The sanctuary doesn't disappoint.  They have a huge reserve of land with koalas dispersed throughout, and two hot spots enclosed by a koala-proof fence.  In the reserve it's still pretty tough to spot a koala (especially since they barely move, taking an average of 20 hours per day of sleep - not unlike my brother), but in the enclosures, there are 10 to 20 of them and you can't miss them.  They have built boardwalks in the enclosures that put you up in the canopy, level with the koalas, so you can get quite close.

While we're on the boardwalk, one koala stretches out from her tree branch, grabs the hand rail nearest a group of 20 or so people, and climbs aboard.  This causes quite a commotion and there are suddenly 10 or 20 cameras and cell phones surrounding her and following her every step down the handrail.  She seems pretty calm with it all and we wonder if it's a regular thing for her.

After about 15 minutes, a park ranger shows up and puts things on a whole new level of panic.  "STAY BACK EVERYONE!" he shouts.  "CRIKEY!  SHE'S A WILD ANIMAL!"  The koala is sitting on the handrail in the midst of a group of tourists.  "SHE HAS CLAWS AND TEETH AND COULD TAKE YOUR ARM OFF!" yells the ranger.  I think the koala yawned.  We start wondering if he is playing a joke, but his uniform looks genuine enough.  "YOU ARE IN HER HABITAT AND SHE IS FEELING CORNERED.  CRIKEY!  SEE HOW SHE ISN'T MOVING?  THAT'S A SIGN OF STRESS!"  We are glad he told us because it looked like a sign of boredom until then.  The ranger proceeds to throw a burlap sack over the koala, flip the sack upside down to carry it to a scale, weigh it, and then carry it down to ground level to release her onto the trunk of a tree.  She bolts out of the sack and up the tree and we get to see what a truly stressed koala looks like.





Mornington Peninsula

Tuesday February 6

We drive from Geelong on our way to spend four days around the Mornington Peninsula - just south of Melbourne.  We are looking forward to settling down in one place for more than a day!  We catch a ferry from Queenscliff over to the peninsula which saves us a couple hours of driving and gives Clark a chance to take his eyes off the road for a change.  The views from the ferry are beautiful and we spend the trip sipping on coffee and watching the sea life.  Most impressive are some birds fishing like I've never seen before - these birds hit the water so hard and then completely disappear - long enough that I am convinced they have drowned or died from force of impact - then they just pop right out of the ocean with a fish - so amazing to watch! 

Our first inkling that Mornington is the playground for the Melbourne rich & famous are the mansions overlooking the cliffs near Portsea.  The boathouses for these mansions are easily triple the size of our house in Canada, and the yards look like miniature versions of the Melbourne botanical gardens.  Our second inkling is that the price of a hamburger & fries in the first pub we stop at for lunch is $33.00!!!  We head to a different café and split a less expensive pizza.  Audrey is pretty happy to discover that there is ham on the pizza!

Audrey and Ellen playing at the cafe (this one's for you Rippy)

The Mornington peninsula is stunning - with lots of sheltered white sandy beaches, cliff walks, fresh-produce farms, vineyards, and charming little towns loaded with boutique shops and café's.  So the brochures tell us anyway…

We don't see any of it for the first couple days.  We spend the first two days unpacking and doing laundry while trying to recuperate and catch up on sleep - this constant travelling is wearing all of us down.  We are continually adjusting our expectations of what we can see and do while travelling with small children. 

It's tempting when we read the guidebook & brochures to try and visit all of the different attractions, or travel to all of the interesting places.  But, it's also exhausting trying to organize accommodation, food, clothing & the constantly metamorphosing diaper bag for those trips and fit all of the sightseeing in while keeping the kids fed, rested and entertained.  I think we need to start treating Australia more like home.  There are zoos, water parks, specialty shops, cinemas, amusement parks, swimming pools, etc. there too but we don't try to go to one every day.  We also don't decide on a whim to drive to Kelowna and take the kids on a wine-tasting tour, or suddenly pick up and drive to Jasper to hike Mount Robson.  Time to put the guidebook & brochures down for awhile!!! 

Thursday February 8

Our friends from Melbourne drive up to visit for the afternoon/evening and coax us out of the house.  We drive to a little town called Mt. Martha where the girls play on the beach and in the water.  Rusty is getting more confident with the ocean waves and these sheltered beaches make her even more comfortable with venturing deeper into the ocean.

We drive back to Mornington and stroll through the town stopping at an Italian café to sit down and feed the girls.  The adults semi-enjoy a glass of beer or bubbly while trying to bounce and spoon-feed babies and keep the toddlers from running away down the street.

Rusty holding hands with her new best friend
Enjoying some ice-cream back at our flat
Our friends join us for dinner and some lively and uninterrupted conversation once all of the children are finally asleep.  They regale us with tales of giant Australian spiders.  My girlfriend describes some spiders with enormous long-legs compared to their bodies.  I chime in that "we have those back home too - we call them Daddy-Longlegs."  She almost falls off her chair laughing.  I guess they have Daddy-Longlegs here too, and they are to the spiders she describes as a Koala is to a Grizzly bear!

Friday February 8

We have a busy weekend planned (which we planned weeks ago) on Phillips Island and then we are determined to settle down somewhere and stop the endless packing and unpacking that has become the bane of our existence!  Off to Phillips Island...